Saddam Hussein was hanged between when I took my early morning jeep “safari” into the Wayanad Wildlife Refuge near Thonpetty and my return in the late afternoon for another. This was erected in front of the entrance.
Under the black protest flag hangs an effigy of George Bush. The sign in English says, “Killer Bush. You never escape”. The other side reads. “You’re next”. I hope they don’t mean me.
The main highway between Mysore and Kalpetta, where I was staying, was blockaded. Another blockade was at the junction where that road meets the one to Thonpetty and becomes the main street in Kalpetta. It’s a good thing I decided to hire a jeep rather than patch together local bus rides. The road was not only blocked, but buses were being emptied of passengers. What for? Looking for foreigners? There were no reports of violence against foreigners anywhere in the morning papers or on TV. My driver took me back to Kalpetta on backwoods roads in the 4-wheel drive jeep. There was a small demonstation amidst the crowd piled up at the blockade at the beginning of town, and a march later down main street. Police were guarding the big hotels and supervising the loud but nonviolent protesters. I did not take pictures, but went straight into the hotel.
A general strike was called for the rest of the day in this left-leaning state of Kerala, the only state in India with a communist government. The park was open, as the government did not participate in the strike. The hotels were open, of course, but that’s about it.
Reactions in the press vary. you’ve probably seen reports, though what is on CNN is pablum about the disposition of Saddam’s body and other weak material. Other reactions vary from the Vatican calling the execution “tragic”, to calls for Bush and his handlers to face a war crimes tribunal, to Arab TV which I got in my room with a 1/4 of a screen banner under the reporting, “SADDAM ATTAINS MARTYRDOM”. They report cheers of approval in Kurdestan and in greater Iran, the area west of Iran proper which used to be southern Iraq. The largest English language newspaper in South India, The Deccan Chronicle, reported it in a subdued, professional way. It also had reports on the protests around India, as well as Bush calling it a “milestone”. Typo, I guess. They must have meant “millstone”. Commentary was critical but not scathing. They encouraged peaceful reaction, while reminding people, basically, “What did you expect? The trial, outcome and execution were orchestrated in Washington.” There was a picture of the Citibank in Cochi being stoned and spray painted. There was another of demonstators being subdued in Kannur. I know the garbage on US TV alleges that the rump government toadies in the Green Zone are responsible. That is a matter for debate in the US because it’s framed that way by the privately sponsered media. It’s also a matter of debate there whether the oil company, auto and beer sponsers control content. Right.
I think that was the worst of it. Yesterday I took two long bus rides to Kannur, and things look pretty cool here. Yesterday was Sunday, and the second day of an important Muslim holy period, and it was new year’s eve. So people have other things to do, besides not working, as usual on Sundays. The quiet was no doubt good for everybody. If the guys in Washington did anything right, it was time the hanging when they did. Now it’s new year’s day. People have counted to 10 and breathed a little.
I’m here to attend a thayyam. That’s an ancient rite probably predating Hinduism, practiced in north Kerala. It involves prayers, dance, spectacular costumes and music. It lasts 15 hours, and one starts tonight at 9 in a place near here. I hunted up a guy to take me and grease it so I can attend and maybe pictures. I should be a zombie by the timeIi drag myself back to my room about this time tomorrow. More on that when I revive.
Happy New Year to you all.