Manali’s the place everybody loves to hate. That must be why everybody comes here. Personally, I don’t think it’s so bad. Sure, it’s a tourist ghetto for Indians and foreigners alike, but it is pretty around here aand it would as easy as anywhere to hang out. New Manali is a little over the top. The main street is blocked off into a pedestrian mall, much like Shimla, and lined with all the usual shops, eateries and the like. At least you can buy stuff here. I replaced my Nikon camera with a more advanced version of the same thing, so I don’t have to relearn how to use it. Also, it has a particular feature, the ability to save an enlarged photo in the camera instead of doing it on a computer. I was advised to buy a better built camera, a Sony or a Canon, but they don’t have this feature. I was also advised that the digital cameras here are grey market without warranties and could be Chinese fakes. I don’t know, but this looks pretty real to me, though there is indeed no warranty. I worked every function before leaving the store, and have since uploaded pictures to this site. It seems fine to me. I also replaced my dear electric mosquito killer. That will be a MUST soon, though there are no mosquitoes at this time of year in Manali. I had hopes for finding earplugs, but that will be hard anywhere. I’ve seen them in the big cities. For the ability to find the mosquito killer and the camera, I like Manali okay.
It’s a lot mellower in Old Manali and in Vashisht. Old Manali is one way up a road from New Manali. It’s basically just a road lined with guesthouses, eateries and shops. There are some nice guesthouses in the apple orchards at the far end of the town. If you travel a little more upscale, that’s where you’d go. Vashisht is a real village about 3 km from New Manali and still has some charm, though the usual stuff is definitely there. I’m staying in Vashisht.
I have a room on the roof with a terrace right outside my front door. Here are three photos of the view, panning from right to left.
It looks gloomy because it is. There is almost constant cloud cover and it rains or drizzles off and on all day. Fortunately Manali and Vashisht are on mountainsides and there is good drainage. There aren’t too many low points where water can collect. I hat hog wallows. Some places are SO muddy during the rainy season you get filthy just going from one place to the next.
There are some hiking trails around here. I may go out on them, but for now I’m just hanging out, mostly reading. I think in a couple of days I’ll head up the Paravati Valley, south of here. I’m in no hurry to get anywhere where it’s hot as well as rainy. At least it’s cool here.
Vashisht itself has some nice things. There are several Hindu temples and a Buddhist temple. A couple of the HIndu temples are quite old. There is more religious fervor here than most towns, despite the debauched tourist atmosphere. I assume that’s because of the hot springs in town which supply the public baths. My favorite breakfast joint overlooks those. It’s a funny feeling, watching mostly Indians take baths for cleanliness of the mind and body, while sitting on the restaurant terrace with the backpacker crowd, some of whom are smoking hash and others smoking plain cigarettes and drinking beer.
Just across the narrow lane which leads to my guesthouse is a new temple under construction. Here it is, followed by a shot of the stonecutters clink, clink clinking away.
I may blog again before I leave. But for now, be well, all of you.