Every time I think I’ve seen enough of India, someplace or something comes along that reminds me why I like this country. It is full of surprises. I went to Varanasi in a very blase’ mood, counting the days till I return to the US and feeling like I had to “do” Varanasi. I’m so glad I did. I’ve seen the photos, the documentaries and the National Geographics about the spirituality and sights. I’ve been to many old cities in many ancient cities. I’ve had rooms with views and eaten in so many cuisines that I’m too confused to discuss it. But Varanasi is something special, not so much because the cuisine is that great, or the views more outstanding than other outstanding views around the world, or that the spirituality is any more palpable than several places in the world. It’s not the most exotic place I’ve ever been. It’s just that it’s all there, and it’s unique, even in India.
The first picture is from my room window. I love my rooms with a view. Here, I’d rest sometimes after my feet were tired, lean on the sill, and watch the sights far and near. This view is up the Ganges. One can see why the ancients built a city here. At this bend in the river, there is a broad, sandy flood plain on the other side. On this side, the bank is relatively steep. So, the rising and falling river mostly affects the other side. On this side, it just goes up and down the ghats, or steps.
You have to go up to the rooftop terrace restaurant to see the other way, down the river.
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Just to the left of the pink pavillion in the lower left are the famous burning ghats, where probably a hundred of Hindus are cremated. They ask for us not to take pictures of cremations, and as much as I wanted to and could have gotten away with it, I respected that. You’ll have to pick the National Geographic or search the net for that.
The following pictures are of along the ghats, taken either form on the ghats or during the early morning boat cruise many tourists take.
Here’s looking across the Ganges at dawn. The swimmers in the distance are cleansing themselves of their sins in one of the most polluted rivers in the world.
Varanasi is fulll of holy men, called sadhus. Some are extreme. Most just quietly amble the streets, begging for food or money. They give blessings. Sometimes they just sit around, or sit around smoking hash. One of the following is of some tourists smoking with the sadhus.
There was a big prayer ceremony in Varanasi commemorating Shiva’s marriage to Paravati while I was there.
 
One of the more extreme sadhus had a practice of wrapping his penis around Shiva’s trident. At first, I thought he had probably gradually made a hole in it and put the trident shaft through it. I went to where he was again, and it wasn’t THAT extreme. what he has done is gradually stretched his foreskin so it could be wrapped around the shaft once, then secured. then he rotated the shaft 360 degrees, pulling up all the stretched loose skin along the side. Then, he turned it 360 more degrees, wrapping his penis around the shaft.
As if that wasn’t enough, he put the shaft between his legs and had another holy man stand on it.
I do notice that he’s holding the weight with his hands. The other sadhu has the elephant man’s disease, a rare and enviable blessing.
Three and four wheeled vehicles are not allowed on the old city’s narrow lanes. This gives it a certain charm. Of course, part of the charm is the slurry of cow flop and garbage you have to wade through.
So, there you have it from Varanasi. I’m hoping a picture says a thousand words. It’s interesting this time, with picture posting capability. I’m hardly writing anything. Maybe next time around, I’ll write more. I feel a need to express myself, but I know few want to hear that. I’m thinking the pictures are more entertaining.