Richard's Travel Blog

Delhi wasn’t too bad, as seething megalopoli go, but I am so glad to be out of there. The things I think I’ll do there can wait.

The reason I never make plans is I always change them about two days into them. Here’s what happened this time. I got up and got to the train station at 7, tickets on the 7:40 to Shimla in hand. I was looking around a little bewildered, when a guy from the government tourist office asked me if I needed any help. I asked where the platform was for the train I wanted. He looked at my tickets and said the first train would never get to Kalka in time to make the transfer to the one to Shimla. We talked awhile about my travel plans, and he suggested I do it another way. So, not particularly liking to do everything the hard way and suppressing the urge to do it the Lonely Planet way, I went back to the office with him. One thing I’m learning is that the Indian national tourist office really is out to help you. And they have discounts on everything, if you do stuff through them.

In short, they described to me the effort I’d have to make to do what I want to do up north, the pitfalls, and the expenses. They convinced my to allow them to provide me with a driver who knows the areas, and a car for a month for $1330. Now, that’s a shocking amount, so I thought about it, thought about my clunky pack at 15,000 ft, about how many times I’ve handled all this myself and what I got out of it, and about the times I’ve allowed myself to be babysat and what I got out of those times. I had just gotten my first bum steer. So I decided to do it. I am now, again, a sahib with an ever differential manservant. I pay for my room. He sleeps wherever and keeps his expense money if he wants. So far, I’ve bought his food a couple of times, but a great meal only costs no more than $2 here. The rooms he gets because he’s a government guy are good. They are better than I would get on my own, with sit down toilets, hot private showers, etc., but they are only $8-$12, so I can deal.

It’s already been worth it to go with a driver. He doesn’t speak much English, but he’s been taking people up here and over to Rajastan for 10 years, and he knows where stuff is. He takes the best routes, stops whenever I want, suggests things to see and do, places to eat, etc.. I know so much more than I would have at this point, had I done it myself. And it will especially pay off once we’re in the Himalayan boonies.

We got to Shimla today. I’m going to save talking about where we went between Delhi and here until tomorrow, or when ever I can get to a computer again. I’ll spice this up with photos once I get to an internet place where someone speaks English and I can ask to hook up my camera. So far, the places are manned by kids who don’t seem to know anything. And the computers are crappy. I may be able to write tomorrow, as we’re going to drive around and come back here to sleep. Then for at least a couple of days, I may not be in places with internet.

Until then, as always, best wishes to you all. — Richard

Greetings. I got here last night after an uneventful 20 hours of flight time, and am starting to get my sea legs. It’s interesting how at first your safe zone is the area right around your hotel room. Then you walk up and down the street. Then you walk around the corner. Then, oh dear, you try an alley and get a little lost. That was my “adventure” last night. Last night I was a little leary of the food I was looking at, so this morning I ate the buffet spread at the hotel, which was pretty western-like. Milk curd could pass as cottage cheese, naan is like a fat tortilla, mashed potato and something fritters was familiar looking, as was the mango juice and tea bag tea. I also got myself oriented by taking a half day tour of Old Delhi, a big mosque and a big Hindu temple, a couple of museums, Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation site/park, and had a look-see at the monumental governmant buildings. After a nap I took a two-stroke “autotaxi” to the Connaught Place area of town, which is a fairly nice shopping and nightlife area. I just walked around. The next little step up in adventuring was to buy a spicy ground lamb kabob.

I went into that place because it looked clean and lots of people were getting take-out there, and because I liked the looks of the kabob one guy was eating. Turned out he is a tour operator and spoke english well. Lots of people talk to you on the street here. Usually they want something. But this guy was genuine, and he gave me some good advice about going to Ladakh, a southwestern portion of the Tibetan plateau in India. Little by little I’m getting my sea legs.

The day after tomorrow I’m going to Shimla, north of here, and the first step on the road to Ladakh. For $2 I let the guy at the hotel arrange the train rides. I have to transfer to a narrow guage railway in Kalka, but I’ll get there in one day. From there I’ll go to Manali. From there, it’s 2-3 days thrugh the mountains to Leh, the principle city in Ladakh. I’ll play it by ear from there. By mid-October it should cool down down here.

Best wishes to you all. Feel free to write or comment.

I’m planning to leave for India on Sept 7. This blog will bring to you the tales of my travels. Since this is only August 8, I have nothing much to say. I’m busy getting rid of my stuff and making other preparations.  I will answer all emails and comments, though once I’m on the road, it may take a while. I look forward to hearing from you.