What’s happening in Hampi are the remains of the capital of a Hindu kingdom in the 3rd-6th centuries, Vijayanagar. They sprawl out over many square kilometers. It reminds me of the Forum in Rome, though unfortunately is not so well preserved. Even more unfortunately, it’s pretty heavily restored. I wish they would at least mark the new stuff or the put-back-in-place stuff better. I’ve got a fair eye for that, but I don’t like spending my mental energy examining places in that way. There ought to be an “A” list and a “B” list for UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Hampi/Vijayanagar isn’t on a par with Luxor, the Forum or Angkor Wat. Yes, those places are in part restored also, but they’ve gone a little too far in Hampi. All that said, it is still quite impressive.
One good thing they did in Hampi is have an exhibition of before and after photos of many of the sites. The before pictures were taken in the 19th century, and the after pictures were taken in 1980-something. Here is an example.
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Here is some of the restoration work going on. I wish I had a good picture showing the size of the overall project. There is still a lot buried in the ground, like in Pompeii, or at least Pompeii 18 years ago when I last saw it.
It wasn’t all rubble and disintegrating. It has a few places that even held up. Here’s a temple and a ceremonial stone war chariot. The wheels used to turn on the stone axles until a few years ago, but so many tourists were turning the wheels it was actually making the hole in the wheel bigger. So they fixed them in place with a little cement.
Seeing these sites takes all day with a guide. He’s all yours for $8, plus rental of tw0 bicycles for 50 cents each. I know, 9 bucks, but there is so much to see and learn. My left knee hated that one speed bike, though. I’m just now getting over it, about 5 days later.
Hampi happens to be quite lovely. The river spreads out into different channels and the boulders make it look like a moonscape. I can see why this place was chosen as the capital. What a lot of places there are for hiding, attacking and sniping from behind boulders.
I just want to say, for the record, that Hampi is one of those few places where a tourist can walk down the street and not be badgered by shopkeepers, rickshaw guys, and the like. They ask once, and let it go. The beggars are as bad as anywhere, though. the modern village of Hampi practically exists because of tourism, yet the hassle factor is remarkably low. The jewelry guys, the clothes guys, the fabrics guys, the souvenir guys, all of them, ask once. Reminded me of Bundi. In fact, only the fruit and vegetable ladies give you an earful there.
Later, or more likely tomorrow, I’ll write about Badami and the places near to there. Then I’ll be all caught up.
Be well, all of you, and I hope you had Happy Thanksgivings.